Land of riches
Bertazzoni’s home is Guastalla, near Parma in the region of Emilia-Romagna. This is the Po Valley, the great fertile plain once known as ‘the bread basket of the Roman Empire’. From here comes the food that gives Italian cooking its distinctive and delectable qualities so famed around the world.
The fabulously rich soil generates superb grains and grasslands, orchards and vegetables – wheat for pasta, corn for polenta, rice for risottos, peaches, pears, cherries, quince and of course deep red flavorsome tomatoes. From this land come great butter and cheese, pork, beef, veal, poultry and game, with fish from the Mediterranean and porcini, nuts and truffles from the foothills of the Apennines.
With traditional skills, these riches are turned into classics such as Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan cheese), prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham) mortadella and other piquant cured meats and salamis. The region’s vineyards produce Lambrusco, Sangiovese – and Trebbiano, which is also carefully aged into the renowned aceto balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar).
Cooking is living
Mealtime in Emilia-Romagna is an essential convivial occasion, the foil for conversation and appreciation. Orchestrating the delicious array of the region’s produce creates living rituals and traditions, ever reinterpreted to contemporary life.
The meal starts with antipasto, which may feature anything from vegetables with prosciutto or other cured meats to fruit such as pears with Parmesan and balsamic vinegar. Other popular appetisers are bruschetta, and caprese (fresh buffalo mozzarella with cherry tomatoes and basil).
The first course (primo) is usually pasta. Cooks of the region are masters of fresh flat pasta, cut into strips to make tagliatelle, left whole to make lasagne or stuffed to make classics such as tortellini, ravioli, cappelletti and a host of other shapes and flavors. They are accompanied by any amount of ragus, from perfumed meat to the many vegetable traditional creations. Alternatively there is the risotto, made with special short-grained rice with almost every flavor.
The main course (secondo) is based on the region’s meats – veal, beef, pork, poultry and game – cooked in many sauces, full of great taste. Seafood appears frequently and fish are served in soups and casseroles or with fragrant Italian oil, garlic and parsley.
The finale consists of fruit, especially homegrown peaches, cherries, and pears, as well as nuts, cakes, gelato and desserts. The wines drunk with this delicious fare are a slightly bubbly Lambrusco from Emilia, or the red Sangiovese and dry white Trebbiano from Romagna.